Using the guide rail when working with a circular saw makes it comfortable and fast. This product can be bought in a specialized store or do it yourself.
The device is a homemade circular saw.
The so-called flexi are very popular. Elastic steel tires fitted with rubber lip and special projections make working with a circular saw comfortable. Such products are light and do not take up much space.
A circular saw, with a smooth adjustment of the vertical immersion of the disk, cutting at an angle and fixing the depth of the cut, can become a multifunctional tool for professional work.
Materials and tools for the manufacture of devices for circular saws
For the manufacture of guide tires and other devices for working with a circular saw will need:
Tools for the manufacture of devices for circular saws.
- trimming plywood or hard wood, not less than 10 mm thick;
- Screws, screws.
From tools needed:
- jigsaw or hand-held circular saw for cutting blanks;
- joiner's square for marking workpieces;
- drill for drilling holes for fasteners;
- screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bits;
The manufacture of various devices can be divided into several stages:
- development of the sketch and study of detailing the product;
- selection of materials;
- marking and cutting material;
- assembly of products and their adjustment.
Disc Saw Guide Tire - Guide Bar
The simplest option of the guide tire for the circular saw is the ruler.
For its manufacture fit plywood with smooth edges.
Tire diagram for disc sawmill.
- Cut a strip from plywood. Its width should be equal to the maximum width of the circular saw in the plan, plus another 20 cm.
- On a cut piece of plywood sheet, step back from the factory edge 5-7 cm and cut the strip. This part is a ruler, based on which and along which the bed of the saw blade will move. The rest of the plywood will be the base to which you want to fix the ruler. The height of the ruler should not be less than the thickness of the saw frame, but not exceed the distance to its engine.
- Attach the ruler to the base with screws. They should be fixed at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the edge, and it should be sufficient to use clamps. Consider that the factory edge needs to be directed in the direction in which it is necessary to carry out cutting. The guide rail is attached to the base with glue on wood, and then with screws.
- Remove the excess part of the base of the rail using the circular saw for which this rail is manufactured. The edge on the base will be as flat as the factory edge of the ruler along the entire length.
Cross Cutting Bar
Circular saw for saw blade.
This device is an analogue of the ruler described above and is widely used when working with a circular saw. The stop provides the ability to quickly and accurately cut lengthy blanks at angles of 45 ° and 90 °.
- The base of the stop is made of textolite with a thickness of 3-5 mm or plywood with a thickness of 10 mm.
- The supports are bars with a section of 20x20. You can make them from oak or beech.
- Bars are attached to the base with screws with hidden caps. At the same time, it is absolutely necessary to measure the angles between 45 ° and 90 ° between the support bars. If necessary, the guides can be fixed at any other angle.
Disc Saw Guide Tire - Metal Rail
Working with a guide ruler requires some experience and skill, because when working on the body of the saw, you need to apply multidirectional efforts: press the saw to the template and push it forward.
It is also important that the edge of the sole of the saw be parallel to the disk, which is not always the case, especially if it is a simple, inexpensive tool.
In this case, another version of the guide rail is proposed. The movement of the saw will occur on a metal rail, and not abut the line. So you can put a little effort just to move the tool forward for cutting. Metal template, unlike wooden, allows for more accurate cutting and will last longer.
Figure 1. Circular saw blade design.
To make a guide rail, you will need:
- 2 aluminum U-shaped profiles: one smaller, the other larger;
- sheets of plywood or MDF with a thickness of 3 and 10 mm;
- screws and screws.
Steps for manufacturing a guide rail:
- For plywood with a thickness of 3 mm, fasten a large aluminum profile with screws and self-tapping screws. Headscrews and screws must be flat to screw them into the pot.
- Screw the plywood with a thickness of 10 mm tightly to the profile with screws.
- Now it remains only to saw off the excess and make the ends smooth.
Preparing a circular saw for working with a guide rail:
- As seen in fig. 1, the smaller profile protrudes from the larger by 1 mm. Screw the profile to the end of the table and use the jigsaw to cut off the excess.
- To the base of the saw blade, parallel to the blade, attach the smaller profile with M4 screws. Focus on the disc plane and not on the tool platform. To fix the profile exactly parallel to the disk, lift the protective cover and press the wooden bar to the disk, and then press the aluminum profile to the bar. Secure the entire structure with clamps, drill holes in the profile and tighten with screws.
- Remove the clamps and remove the bar. The saw is prepared for operation.
Figure 2. Fastening guide rail for a circular saw.
- Install the circular saw on the guide rail, while aligning the aluminum profiles.
- Start the saw and saw off the excess from the guide rail, gently pushing it forward along the rail. The next time it will be enough to combine the cut edge of the guide rail with the line on the workpiece, fasten the guide with clamps and start cutting.
In practice, such a guide tire has proven itself well, the circular saw moves smoothly, the cut is smooth.
In fig. 2 and 3 you can see the finished design.Back to table of contents
Other types of saw blades
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If there is a need to manufacture several identical parts, then the first such part can serve as a guide template. To do this, cut the workpiece of the desired length and at one end fix the thrust rail. It should be the same width as the working distance. It is necessary to ensure that the thrust rail fits snugly to the end of the part that needs to be manufactured. So you get the required number of identical products, while not wasting time on their markup.Back to table of contents
Figure 2. Mounting scheme guides.
This device can also be useful. It is made of two massive slats of wood or plywood, fastened together with an overlap in a T-shape using self-tapping screws.
The length of the protruding parts of the horizontal bar is aligned to a size equal to the working distance of the saw blade. By setting the aligned end of the crossbar against the markup, you can make the cut exactly perpendicular.Back to table of contents
As a rule, in the configuration to the circular saw attached edge or angle stop. Thanks to him, you can make a cut parallel to the edge of the material. This adaptation, if necessary, can be made independently. To do this, you will need 15 mm plywood, from which you need to make a thrust rail and a base for a circular saw. In the rail and the base of the hand mill make keyways. Make the keys from pieces of hard wood or plywood and insert into the grooves of the support rail. To strengthen the stop, to the stop rail, fasten another rail at an angle of 90 °. It will rely on the workpiece. Adjust the cutting distance from the edge of the product by moving the stop rail along the guides, after which you need to fix it with a locking screw.
To install the screw, in the base you need to cut through the groove. To make the cut as accurate as possible, and work to be done safely, use 2 screws. A hole is made at the base for the saw disk and the mounting for the saw itself is installed. Mounts can be different.
Their choice depends on the type and brand of saw blade. But the main thing is that this fastening is reliable and allows you to easily dismantle the circular saw when the work is completed. To make it convenient to expose the required width of the cut-off material, you need to fix the measuring tape on the front side of the base.Back to table of contents
"Saddle" for cutting boards
This device consists of three parts and is U-shaped: 2 sidewalls and back. The width of the back should be equal to the width of the timber that needs to be cut. The width of the sidewalls should be sufficient to provide support for the edge of the bed of the circular saw until the saw blade enters the timber. Sidewalls should have grooves to ensure reliable fastening of the saddle clamps to the timber.
Work with the "saddle" should be as follows:
- mark the cut line;
- fix the “saddle” by stepping back from the cutting line a distance equal to the working distance;
- cut the timber by moving the saw along the side surface of the "saddle".
The main advantage of this device is that when cutting a timber that exceeds the reach of the saw blade in thickness, there is absolutely no need to reconfigure it. To do this, you should make 2 sets of saws on opposite sides of the timber.
The design of the "saddle" can be improved similarly to the modernized guide bar. To do this, on 1 or 2 sides you need to attach the bars, retreating a distance equal to the worker. This will provide an emphasis on the sole of the circular saw. So the edge of the sidewall will correspond to the line of cut.
As you can see, it is quite possible to make guide tires and other various devices for the circular saw. The methods of their manufacture are different. For some of them, quite a bit of time and effort is needed, for others, more attentiveness, skills and additional materials will be needed. But the effort expended will subsequently pay off by the fact that you will easily and with pleasure perform a neat and precise cutting of products, while saving time.