Sharpen concrete drill bit

When working with concrete, you should always be able to properly handle the tools so that they serve a long and faithful service. Proper sharpening the drill bit on concrete not only guarantees an increase in the speed of work, but also extends the service life several times.

Diagram of the drill device

Diagram of the device drill.

Basic aspects of the material

Before you sharpen the drill bit on concrete, you need to know all its features:

Drill angle

Angle sharpening drill.

  1. The most important is the material from which they are made. The rod itself is made of hard alloys, but it does not particularly increase the strength characteristics, while the manufacture of the tip is usually accompanied by tungsten and titanium. Such drills can pierce the design of any hardness and thickness, but they were not originally designed for fine work. Some try to drill ceramics and marble with them, but in 8 out of 10 cases this leads to cracks in the bore structure.
  2. It is necessary to distinguish between drills and drills for concrete, because in 1 case they are intended exclusively for drills, whereas in 2 they can also be used on a puncher. Visually, they can be distinguished only by the shank (for a drill, the shank is for SDS, while all others are for drills).
  3. This drill can be used to drill a board or plywood, but you should not pay attention to the drill figures on wood, because they have different principles of work. Here the most common mistake is alignment with weaker analogues. But do not try to make a drill for metal, because from such overloads it can fail very quickly.

Often, home craftsmen find various ways to sharpen their tools under the metal without losing their physical qualities, but such actions are unstable, because of which 1 time everything can turn out great, whereas after the next sharpening the tool will burst during the working process. It is necessary to apply only the provided variations of actions.

Device for proper sharpening drills

A device for proper sharpening of drills: 1 - rail, 2 - drill, 3 - emery wheel, 4 - base, 5 - toolholder.

When working in such conditions, the drill overheats very quickly, so after every 10-15 seconds it is necessary to interrupt work for a short break. High-quality metal can withstand even very large overloads, but in no case should we try to cool it with water or oil, since it will speed up its destruction.

If the path is blocked by a very durable stone segment, which cannot be broken through with an ordinary drill, then this can be done in the slotting mode. But sometimes such a step does not bring the desired results, so you have to break the stone by any means available in your arsenal (most often, a steel ribbed rod (rebar) and a 10 kg hammer are used).

If it was possible to collide with metal, then it is necessary to replace the drill with a similar one on metal, and then crash into a metal structure. When working in particularly difficult conditions (supporting structures and reinforced concrete partitions), drilling with chisels is used exclusively. otherwise, even the best tools will be powerless. After the completion of such work, everything continues according to the basic scheme.

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Main workflow

Tools and materials:

  • drill;
  • clamp;
  • corundum circle.

Each person has his own methods of artisanal sharpening, and often they are distinguished by great originality. Someone sharpens with the help of a grinder with a diamond cutter, and a rasp is closer to someone, but both of these options are suitable only for surface sharpening, because they do not provide particular accuracy and quality. Such moves are permissible only in those cases when it is necessary to correct the ends of the tool for working with a puncher, but no more.

Drill sharpening scheme

Scheme sharpening drills.

At home, the tool is used many times less than in industry, therefore, it is necessary to sharpen the drill much less frequently. Many even acquire new ones in return for old ones, since the process is time consuming, and buy is much easier.

The easiest way to make sharpening using corundum circle, by analogy with all other hardware. In the process, after every 10 seconds, you should take breaks to cool the metal, because otherwise, there is a good chance that the hard-alloyed plastic may fall off.

If overheating is very fast, then you can use the water, but you should not be especially zealous, because this also acts destructively (if you manage to miss the moment when the metal is heated, you must already wait for cooling in air, because its water will simply split).

During the working process you need to carefully monitor the uniformity of sharpening, so that in the end everything turned out perfectly symmetrical. Even if the sharpening itself is bad, then it can still be straightened, whereas in the case of a curvature, the drill will burst with 1 approach with a high probability. If the tungsten-titanium alloy turns out to be very reliable, then the edge will be blunt only from one side, which significantly accelerates the heating of the metal, and at the same time reduces the speed of work.

Another important factor is the location of the cutting edges. They should be perfectly straight, and their point of intersection should be exactly in the center. From the point of intersection depends on the uniformity of work, so you need to take this step no less carefully than any other.

There are 3 main types of sharpening:

Cylindrical drill section

Cylindrical section of the drill.

  1. Conic. The most common option, because simplest. It is necessary to fix the drill on the platform, then bring it to the grinding wheel for 5-10 seconds, then remove and rotate. This procedure is fast enough, so experienced masters can achieve the perfect result in 1-2 minutes.
  2. Screw Much more complicated, but also much more interesting, because requires more skill at the initial stage. Sharpening is carried out using a diamond wheel, and after completion it is necessary to make a file with a needle file.
  3. Flat. Average complexity of work, but requiring its share of concentration. Usually carbide materials are sharpened at an angle of 60 degrees, and there is no need to be particularly wise, as when creating a conical shape. Ideal for correcting the shortcomings made earlier.
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Before sharpening a concrete drill with your own hands, you need to know all the variations of sharpening. Such activities do not take a lot of time and effort, but the end result will contribute to the success of a long time.

The most important thing is to be careful and not to overheat the metal in order to bring the workflow to its logical outcome.

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