The cutter for wood, made with your own hands, will be useful for modellers, carpenters, finishers. The standard tool in the stores often does not have the necessary configuration, so the craftsmen modify it for their own needs or make it from scratch from cylindrical blanks.
Table of the diameter of the cutter and the speed of rotation of the material being processed.
For self-made cutters, there are restrictions on the materials in which this tool will create samples, grooves. To process the workpiece, sufficient ductility is required, mild steel can later cut the wood, but will quickly become dull when processing more rigid materials.
Billets are trimming bars, rebar, ribbed surface which is removed on a lathe. The technology is as follows:
Scheme homemade cutters for wood.
- exactly half of the length of the cylindrical billet is cut;
- on the transition from the cut to the saved part, a smooth transition is created for convenient profile creation in the next stage;
- a quarter is removed from the cultivated area (the transition is also smooth);
- at the last stage, it is necessary to give the working surface of the tool a rectangular shape, for which the lower part is cut off (the recommended thickness of the workpiece is 2-5 mm).
The milling cutter is suitable for work on the tree with the coincidence of the internal angle in the center of rotation of the tool. To give the tool on the tree with your own hands the necessary profile, it is enough to follow the scheme:
- sharpening of the cutting edge - experts recommend an angle of 7-10 degrees, since an excessively sharp edge holds sharpening weakly, has low cutting properties;
- giving the desired configuration - the profile is made with diamond files or cutting discs for grinders for metal;
- to give the working part of the cutter complex profile is used to bend or flatten the working body of the tool.
A thin mill on a tree has a low resource, which can be slightly increased, rounding the angle opposite from the sharpened edge.
A feature of the homemade tool is multithreading. The rail of the desired profile is made several times, since with one pass the cutter may not cope with the entire volume of wood to be removed.Back to table of contents
Cone modifications of the cutting tool
The best cutters are cone-shaped, made of hardened steel.
For milling cone configuration in industrial production are used blanks of complex spatial form. They are difficult to perform at home. The conical milling cutter is used in the manufacture of 3D reliefs (finishing), furniture grooves. Home craftsmen use drills, which are given the necessary configuration.
The milling cutter gives the tree the original shape due to several passes of the tool on the surface of the workpiece. Wood is a soft material, so additional hardening of the metal structure is not required.
The conical milling cutter removes an extra layer of end elements, is used in cutting modes with medium, high revs. The drill is cut closer to the shank (1 / 2-1 / 4 length), each cutting edge is ground by 1 / 12-1 / 3 diameter. With a greater removal of metal from the surfaces of the spiral profile, the tool body is exposed, the cutting edges disappear. The conical tool loses its cutting properties; it is very difficult to make a spiral at home.
The video shows an example of manufacturing end mills from a thin-walled tube. To create a tool with your own hands, you must perform a sequence of actions at home:
- a piece of 15-20 cm is cut from the pipe;
- on both sides of the body (2-3 cm from the cutting edge), oval grooves are created;
- the remaining integer part is grinded on a cone (angle of 2-3 degrees);
- the workpiece is fixed in a vice vertically; a cross-shaped incision is made by the grinder;
- the body of the tube is cut on opposite sides to the oval hole.
The resulting tool is convenient to create in a solid wood deaf or through holes. In the first case, the remaining wood in them must be cut with a chisel. It is difficult to make large conical cutters at home.